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Hi Mel,
Our first book, Joy in Your Garden, covers all types of grow
Joy -
Bulbs grow up through Irish (and Scottish) moss very well. These 'mos
Joy -
If your garden area was prepared last fall, you can plant those cold h
Joy -
I am planting Irish moss in a section of my yard. Will bulbs (dafodill
Catherine
Recent Posts
- The ‘nother other book! (Oct 27)
- Welcome! (Jul 19)
- Rhonda Leigh’s music (Jul 18)
- Joy in the Garden for Nov 27, 2010 (Nov 04)
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Recent Comments
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Hi Mel,
Our first book, Joy in Your Garden, covers all types of grow
Joy -
Bulbs grow up through Irish (and Scottish) moss very well. These 'mos
Joy -
If your garden area was prepared last fall, you can plant those cold h
Joy -
I am planting Irish moss in a section of my yard. Will bulbs (dafodill
Catherine
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Sep 28, 2010 @ 14:34:21
I have a question: what type of tree would you recommend for a peanut island that doesn’t grow too big or send up babies like an aspen.I also don’t want pods to rake up.This is near the front of my house.
Sep 30, 2010 @ 16:18:10
Hey, Kathy!
Hmmm. How big is not too big? Like 12-15 feet? There are some lovely small crabapple trees in the 8-10 foot range that hold on to their pretty little (1/2 inch) crabapples through the winter so there is no mess. Also some evergreens, mostly pines, that come in dwarf sizes although that may be 15-20 feet tall. Or maybe a native maple, Acer ginnala, that is in the 15 foot range.
Apr 18, 2011 @ 16:52:27
Where can we buy the crabapple you described? Is there a specific name?
May 02, 2011 @ 16:41:51
You can find the tree at Wasatch Shadows Nursery, I believe it is called Crimson Pointe from Monrovia.
Oct 05, 2010 @ 13:41:53
Hi Joy,
I have a Maple type tree that has small white bumps on it that appear to be like spider web. Is this spider mites? Can I do something to get rid of them without killing my tree?
Oct 06, 2010 @ 08:08:49
Hi Jana,
If you put a white piece of paper under the leaves and flick the leaves to knock off the dust and the dust starts to move around, you probably have Spider Mites. Soapy water sprayed on them should do the trick. But if that test seems negative, see if you can wipe them off with a damp cloth. At the end of this season, rake up all the leaves and put them in the trash instead of composting them, just in case there is something really bad going on here.
Let me know what happens when you try the ‘tests’.
Happy Growing!
Oct 06, 2010 @ 14:14:34
how do i harvest dianju pears? i pick them in november and they just srival up.
Oct 13, 2010 @ 11:19:22
Anjou pears usually store very well if they are ripe and haven’t frozen. Cut one open now and see if the seeds are hard and dark brown. They don’t change color so that isn’t a way to determine ripeness. When the seeds indicate ripeness, pick them all. D’Anjou can usually be stored in a cool, dry area for up to two months.
They can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks before eating.
Oct 19, 2010 @ 15:28:15
Thank you so much. i picked them and they are amazing. forgive me for being stupid, but you call them anjou pears. the tag on the tree says D’Anjou pear dwarf #7 And the tree which is supposed to be a dwarf is now 30 feet tall. please educate me whats happened.
Oct 19, 2010 @ 15:41:37
D’Anjou or Anjou, depends on the french-ness of the name but it’s the same pear. Sounds like the dwarfing rootstock was overtaken by the regular pear tree that was grafted to it. You now have a standard pear tree!! Might have been a labeling mistake before you bought it, but there’s not to do about it now except enjoy the numerous pears.
Jul 19, 2011 @ 10:10:18
Joy, I love listening to your program. I was picking my red raspberries this morning and they have earwigs. Can you tell me what to do to get rid of the earwigs?
Thanks
Jul 24, 2011 @ 08:32:51
Try Sluggo-Plus, I believe it is registered for use around edible crops. Earwigs are everywhere this year, the moisture made everyplace a good nesting area for them. And, since it’s so difficult to get rid of them all, remember to put the raspberries in a strainer or colander and submerge the strainer in a large pan or sink of water. Those little beggars will come floating to the top rather quickly.
Oct 08, 2010 @ 13:52:14
What do I need to do to get Rhonda Lee’s Fried Green Tomato recipe? Thanks for all the info you teach us about God’s great outdoors!
Oct 09, 2010 @ 17:18:14
Hi Steve,
I’ve been sending copies if folks send in a S.A.S.E. but I hope to figure out how to scan in the recipes and then I can send them via email and you can print out your own copies.
Should I succeed you will get them soon. If not……well, plan B will go into effect.
Oct 09, 2010 @ 10:04:38
Joy,
I planted three Clehms Bectal Crabapple trees in my park strip about 8 or 9 years ago. After growing and thriving, two of them completely died 2 years ago. Now the third looks like the bark is sick.
What can I do to determine the problem and save the last one?
Glenna
Oct 09, 2010 @ 17:15:59
Hi Glenna,
Did the ones that died show any signs of chlorosis? Yellowing of the leaves with darker veins? Did the way or amount of watering change? What kind of soil are they growing in? Is there grass in the park strip also? Whew! Not quite 20 questions….but it may give us a place to start.
Oct 10, 2010 @ 21:04:20
I am preparing to transplate my iris. I have a white vinyl fence on the north side of my yard, and nothing seems to thrive there because it gets so hot. My iris seem pretty hardy, would they do okay there? I planted tomatoes there this year, and all they could do was not die. The plants didn’t even grow. I eventually transplated them. I am also going to transplant my rasberries, would they do okay against the vinyl? Are there any plants that would thrive there and not die? Could I grow corn there next year?
Oct 13, 2010 @ 10:58:23
Iris will probably make it just fine. If you are going to try veggies again next year, this fall dig in 3-4 inches of good compost and enlarge your bed to 3 feet wide, if it is more narrow than that, and put the plants 12-18 inches from the fence. Peppers and eggplants, melons and winter squash usually thrive with that much sun and heat. Corn would survive as long as you water very often….like every day when it get hot plus add fertilizer every 3 weeks.
Raspberries will curl up their toes and think you sent them to hel…..hades. If you had a fence on the west side so the berries would get morning sun and afternoon shade they would be happy….maybe even think they went to Bear Lake for the summer!
Oct 12, 2010 @ 09:52:24
Have a question: What do I do right now to prepare my square foot garden beds for winter? We have just about harvested all our plants from them, so they will only be full of soil. How can I enrich the soil and protect it from weeds and winter drying?
Oct 13, 2010 @ 10:40:35
Lots and lots of good compost should be dug in clear to the bottom of the box. Try Miller’s Box Mix or Harvest Supreme Compost. next, cover with 2-4 inches of leaves and then put something like Poultry Netting (chicken wire) over the top to keep the leaves from blowing away. If you can run the lawnmower over the leaves first to make itty bitty pieces it would even be better.
Oct 16, 2010 @ 21:33:07
I would like the recipe you mentioned on the air for Green Tomato Bread. I couldn’t find it anywhere on your website.
Thank you, Judy
Oct 19, 2010 @ 17:03:16
It’s now on my home page. You can find the other Green Tomato recipes on my KNRS page: KNRS.com Keyword: Joy then click on recipes.
Oct 19, 2010 @ 11:28:20
Hi. Any recommendations for bulk compost, delivered? It would be for a large vegetable garden, so I’d prefer something that doesn’t come from a landfill or waste treatment plant. Thanks.
Oct 19, 2010 @ 15:35:04
Hi Pete,
Try Replenish Landscape Garden Supply; Wasatch Nursery; IFA Country Store in Riverton. Oh – do you live in the Salt Lake valley?
Oct 21, 2010 @ 11:24:18
Hi Joy, I have been battling powdery mildew all summer in different places.
Now my roses are covered, and I treated them twice. Do I try to treat them now again or just wait until next spring and start again? Thanks for all your great advice.
Oct 21, 2010 @ 11:38:44
Just wait. Once the fungus is on/in the leaves there is nothing you can do. This cold, wet spring made Powdery Mildew worse on nearly everything. Only a preventative can keep the stuff away – the spores are always around. New leaves need to be treated before the gray patches show up. Our book Joy in Your Garden has several non-chemical treatments for keeping Powdery Mildew in check.
Nov 02, 2010 @ 12:09:30
Joy, Can I bring in one of those lolly pop daisey trees and have it live through the winter? Actually I have the one with the purple blossoms.
And it cost me $50, hate to loose it….??????
Thanks
Lana
Nov 04, 2010 @ 11:52:47
Those seductive beauties are really annuals around here. Yes, they can come inside but everyone I’ve seen ends up with a huge infestation of aphids. Give yours a good spray with soapy water, wait 10 minutes and then spray with tepid water. Remember to hit all the twigs and under sides of the leaves. Put the little tree in a bright spot and go very easy on the water. Sadly, it will probably drop its flowers and leaves but, hey, surprises are good and you may have the exception that proves this sad rule.
Nov 06, 2010 @ 23:02:14
I love your show and book you inspired me to start composting this year. I started a Vermi composting system that is where I recycle my newspapers and my food scraps. If all goes well, I will have some nice compost for my flower beds next year. Thank you for all the information you give us novice gardners.
Nov 07, 2010 @ 05:41:18
Thanks! do you have a way to take pictures every week or two? I’d love to see the progress/results.
Nov 08, 2010 @ 21:05:18
Oh, I have a camera…I will take some pictures for you. That is not a problem.
Nov 07, 2010 @ 15:05:01
I am interested in purchasing a “home visit” by you, as a gift for some relatives.
How do I do that & how much does it cost
Nov 08, 2010 @ 12:50:43
Hi John! You can purchase a Gift Certificate for $85 (one hour) and I will send the certificate to either you or directly to the recipient. They can then contact me next season and set up the consultation at their convenience. Just email (askjoy@joyinthegarden.com) and we’ll make the arrangements.
Nov 08, 2010 @ 14:54:53
Dear Joy,
I work at J & L Garden Center in Bountiful, Utah. This coming year, 2011, will be Diane Ashby’s, our planting bed supervisor, 25th year working there. We would like to do something special for her and thought that perhaps you might be able to host your radio show some Saturday during the spring or summer months at J & L Garden Center! She is a wonderful boss and all customers seek her out for her knowledge and friendship. I will wait for your response.
Nov 10, 2010 @ 07:22:07
HI Vicki,
I would be delighted to honor Diane, and think it would be fun to add “facts about Diane” to my regular program every Saturday during the growing season. The problem with hosting from your place is that I have no say about where the program goes. It’s a matter of one of the KNRS sales reps selling an advertising package to J&L.
But, I could have her as a guest on the show when she hits (or is close) to her actual anniversary …..or maybe her birthday. I know how rare it is to have someone in our business stay committed to her work and customers for that long. So, as we brainstorm a little, I’m sure we can come up with a fun tribute to Diane.
Dec 25, 2010 @ 11:05:34
Hi Joy! Do you have the sweet potato/apple recipe mentioned on a recent Saturday program featuring comments about Thanksgiving foods folks could not be without?
Mar 26, 2011 @ 13:55:22
Hi Donna, Does the black stuff rub off, looking a little like soot? The term ‘fire blister’ may be a local name for another disease.
Dec 27, 2010 @ 13:22:12
Hi Joy,
A few years ago I went to a Relief Society Meeting where you spoke and answered questions. I really enjoyed it and you did a wonderful job. I have moved to a new ward since and was wondering if you would be willing to speak and answer questions for one of our additional Relief Society Meetings?
Jan 06, 2011 @ 16:20:10
Hi Joy,
I am trying to find a plant I saw last summer in planters, my son-in-law called it a sweet potato vine, and so me it looks like a versa lime and a coleus, do you know if they are the same plant?
Thanks!!
Jan 07, 2011 @ 08:05:52
It is, indeed, called Sweet Potato Vine! There are two color choices – one is very deep purple, Blackie is one variety and the other color is a lime green. All of our local nurseries will carry both during the planting season.
Mar 02, 2011 @ 13:00:26
Hi Joy!
I have a question. My husband and I moved into a home in central UT about two years ago that has about 25 producing apple trees and one pear tree. The house was vacant for I don’t know how many years before we moved in so the trees haven’t been given a lot of recent care. The first summer here, every tree had a mass production of fruit, but last year we didn’t get ANYTHING. We tried pruning them down and spraying them with fruit tree spray just like the year before, but to no avail. Being new orchard bosses with no prior experiance, we would like to know about proper pruning techniques and if it’s too late to prune now. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Mar 02, 2011 @ 15:39:34
Hi Shaylene! The apple trees are behaving just as would be expected: apple trees that are let go hog wild with fruit production most often skip a year before producing again. There is a suppression of flower buds when a tree is busy trying to ripen all that fruit. Now is the time of year to prune apple trees but be cautious and remove no more than 20% of the ‘canopy’ or leaf cover. Heavy pruning not only keeps the every other year type production going, but also promotes tons of water sprouts. These sprouts start usually in June; springing right out of the sides or tops of branches; grow straight up; and, do not produce apples. Although pruning is done late winter/early spring, water sprouts are best dealt with in June. When caught early, you can use ‘thumb pruning.’ That is, put on tough gloves and just rub off the extra sprouts. If left to grow a year, you need pruners and if they grow a couple of years or more you will need to use heavy loppers or maybe even a saw.
Mar 08, 2011 @ 10:31:15
I have 2 questions. I am putting in raised garden boxes. Four – 4X8 boxes made from redwood. (is this a good material to use?)
1. What BRAND of organic matter should I buy? There are so many out there!
I need to buy bags, as my back yard is fenced and no way for dirt (other than wheel barrel) to be brought in. I want a good mix, I have used cheap dirt in the past…just doesn’t work.
2. I want to buy a couple of fruit trees. A cherry and apricot, any suggestions where or what kind?
I live in Utah County, but will travel any place in the valley you suggest.
Thanks and I love your radio show.
Linda Anderson
Saratoga Springs
Mar 08, 2011 @ 11:09:03
Hi Linda,
Second part first:
I saw those beds when I had a book signing – I’ve already recommended the $99 4X4 with zippered top to one of my clients! Did you already buy the redwood? I think you could use the top on any 4X4 box regardless of material and you could double up the boxes like I saw or separate them and have 2 beds. The top could be moved around as needed.
I recommend Miller’s Box Mix. Most locally owned full service nurseries carry this brand; and, I think the IFA Country Stores do as well.
As for fruit trees I recommend staying away from cherry trees. Peaches, apricots, plums and apples are a good choice but you will need extra effort and precautions to get them to grow where you are. Email me again when you buy and I’ll talk you through planting.
For most homeowner purposes the semi-dwarf size are best. Elberta, especially Lemon Elberta is my favorite peach but it is really a matter of taste. Local nurseries are the best places to buy since they carry the varieties that do well here.
Happy Growing!
Apr 01, 2011 @ 19:42:15
1. I like Replenish, Oakdell Egg Farm Organic Compost, Black Magic, Earthworm castings, Harvest Supreme. Replenish Landscape Products will “blow” the material into your beds with a huge blower connected to their truck.
2. Apricot: Tilton or Chinese (also known as Mormon
Cherry: Why? They will always have worms in them. Maybe a dwarf variety that you can completely cover with something like floating row
cover. Pie cherries seldom get worms in them. I think Sweet Cherry trees are best used for shade or Robin feeding stations.
Mar 09, 2011 @ 09:21:32
Hey Joy! Former student of your’s here. My wife and I bought a fixer upper in West Valley last year and have the inside feeling comfortable. I am now ready to concentrate on the yard. When I water most of the water just runs off the lawn and onto the sidewalk and what doesn’t gets sucked up by our pine tree. The yard also in direct sunlight most of the day. I can’t seem to get it green. I’m pretty sure it’s the soil. What is the best way to condition it? Do earthworms help clay soil? It was suggested that I spread used coffee grounds over the lawn, does that help?
Mar 16, 2011 @ 15:54:19
JD! Long time since our stab at Gifted Ed, eh? Get someone to Core Aerate your lawn and then leave the cores (yeh, I know it looks like a dog convention stopped by but the cores will gradually disappear) Try not to water until the end of April even if the lawn starts begging for water. Mow with your mower set on the highest notch. Earthworms help but also leave the lawn very bumpy – the aeration should help with that. Coffee grounds are good for the garden, but not so much for the lawn. Send me a picture, askjoy@joyinthegarden.com and we’ll go from there.
Really wonderful to hear from you – congratulations on the house and garden (and lovely wife).
Mar 22, 2011 @ 11:17:39
Howdy JD! If you aren’t going to rip up the lawn and start from scratch, core aeration (leave the plugs in place to break down) now plus a light application of fertilizer just before a rainstorm so you don’t need to water it in; wait until the end of April to start watering regularly and mow with your lawnmower set at the highest setting. Coffee grounds are great for the garden, not so much for the lawn.
Mar 10, 2011 @ 09:44:05
Hi Joy! I’m a young mother and a recent home owner. I am excited to plant a garden and beautiful flowers. But, I have NO IDEA what I’m doing. I’m wondering what you would suggest for an unexperienced, first timer. I was thinking tomatoes, zucchini and blackberries for the garden. For flowers, I love tulips. Could you give me some tips on when I should begin planting and what grows best here? I live in Utah County.
Thanks!
Marie
Mar 16, 2011 @ 15:49:14
Welcome to the gardening adventure! I recommend you buy our book, “Joy in Your Garden” for starters.
The garden should receive full sun all day if possible. If you can determine where you are going to put the blackberries, you can plant them as soon as you can prepare the soil. All Utah soil needs extra compost – your locally owned nurseries can help you choose some good organic matter. Your planting beds for veggies should be 4 feet wide and as long as you desire, with 3 foot paths in between. If the beds are against a fence or wall, make them just 2 feet wide. Tomatoes and Zucchini don’t go in the ground until mid May.
Once you get your gardens planned, get back to me for more details.
Mar 15, 2011 @ 10:38:42
Hi Joy,
I live on a foothill in Springville and our neighbors have graciously offered to let us use an empty lot behind their house for some more garden space this summer. It seems fairly rocky but other than that I don’t know much about the soil. Is it worth it to plant over there or would I have to haul in some dirt/organic material to make it work?
I have a small garden plot in our yard, but would LOVE to grow beans by the millions for canning and maybe some corn over there.
Thanks!
Mar 16, 2011 @ 15:43:22
I recommend bringing in enough organic material, like compost, to cover the planting beds 6 inches deep. Only the beds, which can be as long as you want but only 4 feet wide with 3 foot paths between the beds. If you suspect there will be a perennial weed problem, I’d lay down a layer of overlapping wet newspaper or wet cardboard before putting down the compost. If it isn’t too rocky, you could dig/till in the first 2 inches of compost and then put down the paper/cardboard and cover with the remaining compost. When it’s time to plant, push back the compost, cut an X in the paper and plant into the lower soil, or cut a slit in the paper to plant a row of beans, for instance. As the plants grow, pull the compost back to the plants to reduce weeds and maintain soil moisture.
You’re welcome!
Mar 16, 2011 @ 10:50:45
I was wondering on how to care for my lie lacks? some are so over growing the trees and some that or not growing well at all. I was told that I needed to prune them. when is the best time to prune them and how do you do it?
thanks
Mar 16, 2011 @ 15:36:47
Lilacs are best trimmed after they bloom. To bring back to a better size, cut 1 out of 4 of the oldest (largest) trunks clear to the ground. For instance, if you count 12 of biggest, oldest stems then saw down 3 of them. If the bush is too tall, cut down the center ones; if the bush is too wide, cut off the ones that grow more to the sides. Then next year remove another 2 or 3 of the huge stems and the same the next year and you will have basically a new lilac shrub!
Mar 21, 2011 @ 13:23:38
We are wanting to kill our strawberry plants this year and plant tomatoes in their place. What is the best way of doing this?
Mar 21, 2011 @ 16:47:07
Just pull/rake them out! No need to use anything other than vigorously applied elbow-grease! They won’t come back without a crown present.
Mar 21, 2011 @ 19:43:03
How do I get ahold of you to talk about a speaking engagement in May?
Mar 31, 2011 @ 19:51:48
My schedule is filled until July – I usually start booking for the spring in Oct/Nov/Dec of the previous year. Contact me via email, askjoy@joyinthegarden.com for more information.
Mar 23, 2011 @ 10:29:37
Joy
I have a grapefruit tree in Beaver Dam AZ the limbs are black and someone told me it was fire blister? Ever heard of this? What can we do to treat it? It produces the most beautiful grapefruits and were afraid it may die. Please help, we so enjoy watching you on Good Things Utah. Thanks for you help I hope.
Mar 23, 2011 @ 19:33:30
Hi Joy! I’ve got a brand new house and a blank slate of a yard I am excited to fill with beautiful things (if warm weather will ever get here!). I have been eying some hydrangeas in the catalogs, but I have not had very good luck with them before. Are there any particular varieties that you have found do well here in Utah? Specifically, in rocky soil (we live in Traverse Mountain, which is nothing but rocks!) I would love to put some in a border around the house. How far away from the house should you plant flowering shrubs to give them enough room? If hydrangeas won’t work, what other flowering shrubs would you recommend?
Mar 27, 2011 @ 11:19:14
Joy in the Garden
I tried to get in on your program Saturday, but I could not. I have enjoyed listening to you for a number of years now, and I love your program and your garden teachings. I have two questions.
1. I have a nice asparagus bed that is overgrown with grass and weeds. Is it possible to kill the grass and weeds with Roundup? Or something equal to it?
2. The City of Kaysville is putting a water line next to my property line. The trench is about 5 feet wide and 7 feet deep and will be within ten feet of my very large evergreen trees. By digging that trench and disturbing the roots of those large trees will it kill them?
Thank you for all you do.
Roy Middleton
Fruit Heights, Utah
801-546-8066 – 801 807-9366
Mar 31, 2011 @ 20:14:56
Hi Roy,
1. asparagus does not compete well with grass but most weed killers are not approved for use around the plants. If the spears are not up yet, you could check the label of glyphosate (like RoundUp) products and see if they are registered for use in the bed.
2. my large (35 foot) Austrian pine had a similar problem, only they dug within 6 feet down both sides of the tree. That was 2 years ago and the tree looks fine right now. I just don’t know if it is living on stored resources or if it is struggling along on what roots are left or if it may just do fine in the future. Only time will give us the answer.
Mar 28, 2011 @ 10:21:37
Hi Joy,
My dad said that a while back you said that you had lost your roses due to something that happened in November? I went out to check mine and sure enough, dead!?
What happened?
Thanks Joy,
Susan
Mar 29, 2011 @ 05:21:31
We are landscaping a new home. We want to install a raised vegetable garden in the corner of a sloping yard. The bed will have three 90 degree corners and a curved front side. Cement blocks will form the front curve. We thought of using timbers on the backside of the bed; however, we have heard some controversy with chemicals leaching into vegetable gardens from some landscaping timbers. Can timbers be used for vegetable spots or should we stick with cement block for the entire bed? Please give us your recommendations for the type of material to use. Thanks!
Apr 18, 2011 @ 13:56:45
New railroad ties have creosote and shouldn’t be used around edible crops. Several years ago companies stopped using CCA to treat timbers – CCA contained arsenic. If you have your doubts as to what has been used to treat the timbers, line the inside of the growing area with plastic stapled to the wood. That should give you the option of keeping the material the same or making the back sides a little different.
Mar 29, 2011 @ 12:21:07
Dear Joy: I have a lilac shrub that for the past two years has had a problem with leaf curl. The leaves sprout normally but as they mature they shrivel and curl, but do not turn brown. I thought the problem might be powdery mildew but do not see any evidence of this on the leaves. I am trying to decide whether to pull the lilac out or leave it if this is a fixable problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Apr 09, 2011 @ 13:43:38
If your lilac is more than 7 years old, the problem could be Lilac Borer. Younger than that and it sounds suspiciously like someone in the neighborhood is spraying with a dandelion killer. Did this shrub grow and bloom normally years ago?
Apr 10, 2011 @ 13:37:59
Dear Joy:
I planted the lilac shrub in 1993. It has bloomed beautifully all this time except for the last two years. During the first problem year, the leaves curled and dropped off but the flowers still bloomed nicely. Last year, the blooms were scant and not well formed; the leaves were in worse shape than the year before. I will check into Lilac Borer being the problem. Thank you for your response. Any more advice will be appreciated.
Cindy
Mar 30, 2011 @ 14:40:10
My roses seem to have died this winter, we have about 15 bushes and thay are black. Have you had any other complants and do you know what is going on?
Mar 31, 2011 @ 10:58:42
Oh my, yes we have roses all over that didn’t make it through the winter, mine included. I lost 5 mini roses outright, had to cut 4 others down to about 5″. My regular roses took the same hit – lost 4 entirely and have cut others down to about 4 inches before finding live tissue in the canes.
We can look back to the tremendously fast drop in temperature in November. None of the roses were able to naturally harden off. Now we see the results. If there is ANY live tissue above the graft, you may want to wait to see how they recover. Some you will see have died completely and this is your chance for a new variety of rose!!
Mar 31, 2011 @ 09:56:54
I have a friend in draper who is having the same problem. The established roses seem to have died.
Mar 31, 2011 @ 13:36:54
Thank you, that helps alot, now we know ware to go from here.
Apr 02, 2011 @ 11:11:53
What is your phone number to call in to your radio show?
Apr 03, 2011 @ 16:12:33
KNRS – 888 570-8010 is the line to our radio program
Apr 02, 2011 @ 19:26:35
Hi Joy,
I bought one of you garden books at Costco the other day and I ask you what type of Apricot tree you would plant here.I forgot what you told me. Could you please give me that name again? Also I want to tell you I have the most beautiful patch of Maltese Cross flowers you have ever seen. And they have spread to other parts of my garden and are so pretty! They really do well here in Utah.
Thanks, Joy
Estelle Lyman
Apr 03, 2011 @ 16:13:04
Either Tilton or Chinese (Mormon) apricots do very well here.
May 09, 2011 @ 12:47:40
That strange stuff is the symptom of Bacterial Wet Wood, also know as Slime Flux. It is a systemic disease with no cure. You can improve the appearance of the tree by washing off the foamy stuff with water and a bleach solution (one part bleach to nine parts water.) Then cut off the soggy bark, leaving a clean ‘wound’. Don’t cover the area with anything. Every time the foam builds up, just clean it off. It only gets in trees and rarely does anything but cosmetic damage. Oh, and attract insects of all kinds.
Apr 02, 2011 @ 20:09:03
Is there a purple version of star of bethlehem flower? We have one in our yard, it only blooms in spring for a week or two, then disappears ’til the next year. It grows everywhere and blooms all at once. I have read how invasive the star of bethlehem flower is and this one in our yard certainly resembles it, but it is not white. I like that it is everywhere. We even had a bridal party stop yesterday to ask to take photos in the yard covered with the beautiful purple flowers. I have photos if it will help identify. Thanks!
Apr 03, 2011 @ 16:13:33
Hmmm……yep, please send a photo
Apr 06, 2011 @ 21:18:02
You can cut them now but lose the flowers for this spring. Or you can wait until the flowers fade and then cut them back to the short length.
You’re welcome!
Apr 06, 2011 @ 09:16:32
I listen to your Saturday morning show most weeks. I heard about the slim chance of the roses…so I’m anxiously waiting for any signs of my roses. Now a question I have been meaning to ask for a few months…but now with the recent heavy snows, I really need to ask. We have a hedge of 5′ (I think) bridal bushes that we’ve trimmed neatly. Now the snows have put holes in the tops. Can I cut them back 12-18 inches? They are starting to bud out. The leaves in the past only go a few inches deep and the rest is bare. Can I cut them back now or do I need to wait until the fall? Thank you for your help now and on your radio show. Sue Gray
Apr 06, 2011 @ 10:29:14
Hey Joy,
Any suggestions for voles in the garden. We have plowed the garden and the soil is nice and soft and they are making burrows all over. In the summer time they like to eat the produce. We got rid of them when we got a cat but the cat is not doing its job apparently becuase they are back. Poison in the garden doesn’t sound good either.
Apr 18, 2011 @ 14:13:06
Poison is a terrible last resort but you can make it safer for critters other than the voles by placing the poison half way into a piece of 2 inch PVC pipe. Place the pipe half buried somewhere along their trails. Check with IFA (Intermountain Farmer’s Association Country Stores) for the best kind of bait to use.
Do make sure they are Voles and not Pocket Gophers.
Apr 10, 2011 @ 21:49:42
Joy, I am so excited to start our first garden this year but my husband and I were wondering if it is safe to water our garden with secondary water (we live in Riverton). Thanks so much and we are definitely planning on getting your book.
Apr 18, 2011 @ 08:28:12
Safe? Sure, but you have now joined the elite corp of WFG (weed fighting gardeners). The weeds seeds up stream from you will be coming soon to your garden. Extra measures may need to be taken to stay ahead of the invaders but you can still grow all you’d like to.
Apr 11, 2011 @ 15:23:36
Joy,
After a story published in Southern Living magazine a while back I have dreamed about beautiful hydrangeas in my garden. I have read conflicting articles about whether you can or can’t grow these plants in Utah. Could you give me some advice how I can best grow these beauties in our cold winter state?
Thanks!
Apr 19, 2011 @ 10:30:59
If the hydrangeas are listed to at least zone 5, you can certainly give them a try. Success is another matter all together. They prefer humidity, acid soil, sun but filtered afternoon shade……. Try an east exposure with shade from trees or shrubs in the late afternoon; amend the soil with at least 4 inches of peat moss and a couple of inches of good compost. After planting, spread another 2 inches of potting soil with peat moss, like MiracleGro potting soil, as a mulch. Fertilize with an acidifying fertilizer at half strength every week. Good Luck!
Apr 18, 2011 @ 15:08:51
I have a big front lawn and there are some spots that don’t seem to be growing. Some are circular, but others are irregular. Do you know what causes those spots or how I could fix it so the lawn grows equally in the yard?
May 09, 2011 @ 10:15:03
I fear those are the dreaded Necrotic Ring Spot signs. Keep your lawn healthy, mow long, fertilize lightly, water deeply. You can take an eight by eight piece of your turf in to your local USU Extension Office for better identification. Try to get a square of sod that has both healthy and affected blades of grass. We don’t have any effective treatments if it is that particular fungal disease.
Apr 19, 2011 @ 11:28:08
I have a large and beautiful apple tree that gives great privacy and lots of apples that we don’t want. They really make a mess is our yard and my family hates cleaning it up. My husband wants to chop it down, but I really love it. Is there a way that you know of to reduce the amount of fruit it produces?
May 02, 2011 @ 16:39:55
Use a product called Flor-El fruit eliminator and spray when the tree is in full bloom; you must hit the blossoms for it to work. Most full service local nurseries and IFA Country Stores will carry it.
Apr 21, 2011 @ 13:09:05
Hi Joy, I just wondered if your book is for zone 4 gardners?
Apr 21, 2011 @ 15:48:19
Karen Bastow, co-author of Joy in Your Garden, lives in zone 4 and so we were very intent on making sure our high altitude gardening friends get some help. I think you’ll find our “high on a mountain tips” are right for your garden.
Apr 25, 2011 @ 13:35:43
I have a question about soil. My small back yard is the perfect size for a garden. The thing is my sewer pipe broke and all the sewage leaked into the dirt in my yard. Someone said that I could still plant there, and others have said not to. What is your advice? I am hoping that I can still plant there.
Apr 26, 2011 @ 10:04:37
I would avoid growing edibles in that soil. Especially root crops. And
always use gloves when working the soil. If you add 3-4 inches of compost
at least once (twice better) a year I think above ground crops would be OK
in a year or two.
A raised bed garden with a layer of cardboard as a barrier would solve the problem.
Apr 26, 2011 @ 18:07:19
I am starting my first garden in a couple of small 4×4 plots in my community garden here in north salt lake. I plan to do mostly vegetables as my herbs are indoor by a sunny window. But I would really like to have flowers for cutting too!!! I’ve never grown flowers so I don’t know which ones would take up the least space while producing the most flowers for cutting. What would you suggest?
May 09, 2011 @ 09:19:36
In a spot that small I recommend bordering two sides of the 4X4 plot with zinnias – they grow easily from seed, come in all colors and sizes and continue to bloom all season. You could plant the seeds now (or whenever it stops raining!)
Apr 28, 2011 @ 16:06:13
Hi Joy! I love your practical advice. Thanks! I have a question about Ground Clear. A couple of weeks ago my husband used it on some unplanted areas. Well, now we’ve been offered a bunch of roses (we have to transplant) but we are wondering they will be able to grow in the area that was treated. We are going to have to fortify and add to the dirt anyway.
May 09, 2011 @ 09:20:48
I would need to know what the active ingredient is in that product to advise when to plant in that area. Let me know what the label says.
Apr 29, 2011 @ 10:31:46
It’s Arbor Day! We have a few trees to plant. Yeah! Some are in the paper-cardboard type containers & some in plastic. We know the plastic container must come off, but does the grayish cardboard one?
May 09, 2011 @ 09:17:19
If you just cut the bottom off the cardboard pot and then slice the sides up from the bottom in a few places you can plant the pot and all. But be sure the top edge of the container is below the surface of the soil.
Apr 29, 2011 @ 13:13:40
Do you happen to know where I might be able to locate seed potato’s?
May 09, 2011 @ 09:17:56
I believe Western Garden Centers still have some varieties of seed potatoes.
May 01, 2011 @ 21:57:54
Joy, I have an 1800 square foot flagstone patio with Irish Moss planted throughout. How can I keep the weeds down without harming the moss?
May 09, 2011 @ 09:24:06
I really depends on what kinds of weeds are growing there. That is a large area to be down on hands and knees pulling little weeds! But when the soil is very moist it still might be the safest way to go. If they are grassy weeds, check the label on Grass-B-Gon to see if Irish Moss is one of the plants that resist damage. Since it isn’t a true moss you are going to kill it along with the weeds if you try something like RoundUp.
May 05, 2011 @ 08:55:10
Joy I am looking for a tree to put outside my kitchen window. I would like to find one that smells good has a root tap and is round instead of so tall. I would also like it to be dense so i cant see in my neighbors kitchen window.
Any suggestions. Thank you Marlene
May 09, 2011 @ 09:24:44
How tall would you like it to get?
May 08, 2011 @ 18:38:21
Hi Joy,
Over Mother’s Day weekend we dug up some tulip bulbs from a friend’s garden. The were producing incredibly beautiful, tall stemmed, tulips. Can we plant the bulbs now, in SLC in May, or do we need to wait till fall? If we should wait till fall how should the bulbs be stored until they are planted? Thank you!
May 09, 2011 @ 09:26:00
Replant right now….or when the rain stops. Plant the bulbs at least 6 inches deep – and space them about 2 inches apart. Don’t cut down the green leaves until they are brown/yellow.
May 10, 2011 @ 12:34:25
Joy, I need help. Two years ago, mushrooms started appearing in my front flower beds. Now I have tons of them coming up. How do you control them?
May 19, 2011 @ 13:46:58
Mushrooms indicate some kind of decaying organic material. It is sometimes the roots of trees long since cut down. Sometimes in a brand new home, contractors decided to bury some of the left over wood instead of carting it away. Sometimes the spoors came in with a load of mulch. Any which way, this long cool wet spell makes for perfect mushroom growing. When it warms up and dries out it will probably get better. In the meantime, rake off the button or whatever shape top and toss them in the garbage.
May 13, 2011 @ 19:01:37
We have a blue spruce that we planted in our yard about 11 years ago; it is about 25 feet tall. It has brown rust colored needles all over it except for the new growth on the ends of the branches. What could this be and is there something we could do about it.
We live in Syracuse Utah
Thanks,
May 19, 2011 @ 14:01:23
There are a number of fungal diseases that attack evergreens and Blue Spruce have been showing nasty symptoms of Needle Blast (at least I think that is the name) I recommend a good arborist to diagnosis the problem. Try ‘Tree Doctors’ 801 755-7438 Tell Mark I thought he could help or make recommendations.
May 17, 2011 @ 03:38:53
Every year I try and grow cucumbers. I had success our first year, and then we rose the garden bed and boxed it in and made it bigger. Ever since then all I can get is flowers on my cucumber plants and not cucumbers. I also had this problem with my cantaloupe last year. What am I doing wrong? Is there something lacking in my soil, or do I have too much of something in my soil?
May 31, 2011 @ 09:23:32
First, the little male flowers on cucumber vines almost always form first and they never make the cucumbers. You can spot the female flowers on cucumbers and cantaloupes by checking for the small fruit that is already present at the base of the flower. Cucumbers need warm air (and soil) temperatures so it rarely pays to plant them early. This year especially. They also require rich soil – that means add extra good compost – and consistent water. And the more full sun the better for both of those plants.
May 20, 2011 @ 17:23:51
Hi Joy,
My question is about the use of manure tea. We have lots of horses and with all the rain we have alot of it. Does it need to age before I can use it? Can i just pour it on the flowers and vegetables. I have lots, come on over!!!
May 23, 2011 @ 21:00:26
Dilute the tea until it is the color of, well, very very weak tea! Then you
can pour away. Don’t let the tea sit around, just dilute and pour.
May 21, 2011 @ 13:05:18
My in-laws have a lilac bush behind there home that the city will taking out for a new road. The bush is fairly established. Is it possible to transplant the bush to another location? If so, how should I do it and how long can the bush be out of the ground?
May 24, 2011 @ 16:47:01
Lilacs are strongly rooted and if the bush is 5 or more years old it will be much easier and probably more successful if you buy a new plant.
May 23, 2011 @ 11:40:09
Hey Joy,
I am putting in a new yard this year. We have the grass in and we are working on trees and shrubs. I know there are different kinds of soil testing kits out there, but I was wondering if you happen to know what type of soil we have in Saratoga Springs. I live in the south end just past the gold course. I also have brought in good top soil, and compost for the flower beds. I am just worried about buying trees, and having them die on me. I am looking into a Cherry snow fountain, amur maple, praire fire crabapple, twisted laventer red bud. Anyway, is there anything you can tell me about the growing conditions out here?
May 31, 2011 @ 09:30:18
Hi Rachel,
You can count on your soil being nearly lacking in organic matter and a fairly high pH. I’m not a fan of ‘top soil’ but there is always room for more compost! In fact, 3-4 inches should be added every year – either dug in or left as an excellent mulch on top of the soil – EVERY year! The Cherry tree and maybe the Red Bud are most at risk when there is poor drainage in the area. Test the soil drainage by digging a hole 12 inches deep and filling it with water. Keep track of how long in takes to drain and then fill it again. If it takes more than 12 hours to drain, you will have better success creating a berm to plant your trees. The berm only needs to be 8 to 10 inches high but make it fairly wide. And be sure to add 2-3 inches of compost as a mulch around anything you plant out there – not right against the trunk though, out a couple of inches.
May 27, 2011 @ 10:56:53
I have a 4×8 raised garden box with 3 tomato plants, 3 green bell peppers, 2 green beans, 1 butternut squash, 4 romaine lettuce, 1 zucchini, 1 cucumbers and 2 peas. Do you think that’s too many vegetables, should I remove some plants or can I add more plants?
May 31, 2011 @ 09:49:02
After the lettuce and peas are finished (when the temperature finally gets hot) you could plant more beans in those areas. The cucumbers will do better if you give them a little trellis to climb on so they grow vertically. I corral my zucchini by making them grow up inside a tomato cage and that saves a lot of space; the butternut squash will ramble all over the place, but if you have the room, that will be fine! Only the roots need to stay in the nice soil in the box. Be sure to give the plants a lot of nutrients – try mulching with two inches of the best compost over the entire 8 X 4 box.
May 27, 2011 @ 11:23:32
I know we are suppose to spray for peach boor June 1 and July 1, however, what is the best product to use? Also my Kwangzi Cherry tree looks like one entire limb has boor . Should we just cut it down?
Thank you, Linda
May 27, 2011 @ 21:40:53
The Greater Peach Tree Borer attacks any fruit tree where the fruit has a pit: peach, nectarine, apricot, plum and cherry, including Flowering Plum and Cherry. The recommended treatment is the first week of July, August and September. All of our locally owned nurseries should be able to direct you to the best product for treatment. Remember, we only treat the bottom 12 inches or so of the trunk. Any damage in the upper branches has a different cause.
May 31, 2011 @ 09:38:08
The spray schedule for fruit tree borer is the first of July, August and September and the treatment is for the bottom 12 inches or so of the trunk. Damage showing up in the branches is from another problem; that could well be damage from the terrible drop in temperature last November. If removing the damaged branch leaves a tree that is horribly out of shape, consider removing the tree.
May 27, 2011 @ 13:54:56
I have some questions about tree’s. I have lost quite a few tree’s this year from the winter . I lost a kwanza cherry tree, a weeping cherry, a nectarine and possibly a red bud. My Red Bud and Kwanza were very well established, my question is what are the best kind of tree’s to plant in West Jordan???
My Red bud lost a huge branch in the winter so I am thinking this is why it is struggling. Any help you can offer would be great.
Thanks
May 31, 2011 @ 09:35:19
This year even well established trees and shrubs showed terrible damage and many died altogether from the drastic temperature drop last November. Any type of cherry tree is bothered by heavy soil that is slow to drain – it puts them under stress and more susceptible to other problems. Red Bud is also apt to show problems early as it is just on this side of being hardy here. Two suggestions: dig in 3-4 inches of good compost plus an inch or so of Utelite in the entire bed where trees or shrubs will be planted. Then dig a test hole 10-12 inches deep and fill it with water, let it drain and fill it again to test the drainage. You may need to build a berm to allow for proper drainage around the roots.
Jun 02, 2011 @ 21:12:44
Dear Joy,
I so enjoy your appearances on Good Things Utah, and your radio program when I can listen. I was hoping you could help me with a flower garden issue, when we moved in our home 16 years ago, there was a small patch of what I call “Star flowers” usually in March they start to spring up and look like thick long very green grass, then in May during the sunniest part of the day, they have prolific white flowers that open in the day and close at night. The bulbs have spread all over 2 flower beds and have become an extreme nuisance, a shovel full will be 3/4 bulbs from star flowers and the balance dirt. I would love to rid my garden of them but I don’t want to harm my many perenials. If you have any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks a million.
Jun 03, 2011 @ 08:39:02
Oh dear. Those are Star of Bethlehem. One of the ways they spread is by sneaking a ride on your shovel! The bulblets are as little as a BB and any soil that sticks to a gardening tool after working around them is sure to have Star of Bethlehem with it. Make sure you never let the flowers go to seed – and after that it is cut, pull, slash, pull, whack, cut, slash, etc. forever. Sorry. I have a small clump in a path in my garden – it’s been there for 10+ years. After the flowers are spent, I cut it off and then, as the greens keep coming back, I run over them with a wheelbarrow, stomp on them, cut them off……….over and over for the rest of the growing season.
Jun 03, 2011 @ 13:22:08
Help!!!! We bought 5 dwarf fruit trees on deep discount from Lowe’s believing we were going to be able to purchase a home on a short sale. It fell through, and we live in an apartment. I know, it was crazy to buy them, but they were $3.00 a piece and the house purchase was looking so positive. What do we do with the trees now? I would really like to keep them, we will be buying a home if not this fall then definitely next spring. How can we keep them and keep them alive and growing on a patio for the next 6-12 months? Is that even possible? Our patio is south facing. They are currently still in the plastic pouch bags we bought them in. We really would like your advice!!!
Jun 07, 2011 @ 10:28:01
They should do fine in containers – 12-14″ is probably the minimum suggested size. Use good potting soil and check the roots for any dead or damaged ones, prune the bad ones off. I hope the trees are starting to leaf out by now – after trimming the roots, soak the roots in tepid water while you get the pots ready. Water well after you plant the trees, no fertilizer for the first couple of weeks at least, and put them in the shade of the patio until they start showing new (more new) growth and then give them as much sun as you can. Directions for planting should be on the bags they came in.
Jun 06, 2011 @ 09:03:30
Hi Joy …looking for some help in in redesigning my back yard, I have a plan but the bids have been “out of this world”… I could build a new house for the costs they are giving me. Do you have any suggestions?
Jun 06, 2011 @ 15:45:41
Hey Sherry! Just visited at the home of a friend of yours – she said she had talked with you. A consultation for ideas and directions may be very helpful to you. Email, askjoy@joyinthegarden.com and we’ll see if something I can do will help.
Jun 08, 2011 @ 15:02:32
Joy, I’m wondering about spraying my fruit trees. When do I start and with what?
Jun 17, 2011 @ 17:32:27
Hi Sherlyn, .
It depends on which tree and what you are trying to control. This link is superb for keeping everyone up to date on what and when to spray. They send a newsletter every week for no charge.
Jun 08, 2011 @ 17:31:32
I heard that you have an effective way to get rid of Star of Bethlehem–my husband has been digging for days. Is there something I can put on it and still use the land for edibles?
Thanks,
Dixie
(I was introduced to you in the Marriott Center at Women’s Conference.)
Jun 17, 2011 @ 17:36:37
Well, my stock answer is……….move. But short of that I’m not much help. I can warn about using a shovel and then taking the shovel to work in another part of the garden: the little bulblets are so tiny that they can cling to the tiniest amount of soil and then hitch a ride to another part of your yard to begin the invasion ‘over there’. RoundUp can be used in soil that will grow edibles but it has a minimum effect on the Star of Bethlehem.
Jun 11, 2011 @ 11:16:43
Joy:
I listen to you often on Saturday. My question is I have several interior plants broadleaf etc. I have a continuous problem with the leafs turning black on the tips until they completely die. I have changed the soil cut back on water cut back of frequency of water etc. I am not sure if it is over watering or under watering etc. Do you have a suggestion on what may be the issue. I have figured out that they do better with less direct sunlight.
Thank you kindly for your suggestions in advance.
Sincerely,
Karen Peavler
Roy, UT 84067
Jun 17, 2011 @ 17:58:16
There are several house plants that do not tolerate fluorine in the water….and the symptoms match what you are describing. Try using the least expensive bottled water for a couple of weeks, especially on new plants, and see what happens. It is very easy to over water, make sure the soil is quite dry before adding additional water. There are houseplants that won’t tolerate direct sunlight, and it sounds like you may have some of those. To clean up your plants with the black edges, trim with little sharp scissors to make them look better. Just take off the edges that are affected.
Jun 17, 2011 @ 17:59:21
There are several house plants that do not tolerate fluorine in the water….and the symptoms match what you are describing. Try using the least expensive bottled water for a couple of weeks, especially on new plants, and see what happens. It is very easy to over water, make sure the soil is quite dry before adding additional water. There are houseplants that won’t tolerate direct sunlight, and it sounds like you may have some of those. To clean up your plants with the black edges, trim with little sharp scissors to make them look better. Just take off the edges that are affected.
Jun 14, 2011 @ 18:09:21
Hi Joy – I have a question for you. I have a really nice honey locust tree in the front of my house that was budding in the spring but hasn’t produced any leaves yet. We have two other locust trees in the yard that are both doing great. The bark on the “sick” one is still green and the branches don’t appear to be dead. Have you seen this happening this year? I’ve thought about pulling it out but it’s about 10 years old and a great tree. I’d hate to get rid of it and find out it was just sick for a year and could have come back next year. Is that even possible? Any suggestions?
Jun 18, 2011 @ 10:16:11
Where can I buy Ladybugs got the aphids on my apple trees??
Thank you so much love your show!!
Jun 21, 2011 @ 16:03:55
Those were from Wasatch Shadows Nursery, in Sandy. Maybe a nursery nearer to you is carrying them….call and find out.
Jun 28, 2011 @ 21:28:44
Those were from Wasatch Shadows – check with them first to see if they still have any, then call around to other local nurseries near you.
Jun 18, 2011 @ 11:40:37
Hi Joy,
I was listening to the show this morning and you were mentioning that there are a few local nurseries that are carrying heirloom seeds. I would like to plug a great local resource. Kenyon Organics sells seeds and plants in Salt Lake City. I have been getting plants from them for a few years now. They are incredibly involved in the community and a great supporters of other local businesses. I would love to hear them get a plug on your show.
Thanks for the great information!
Jun 21, 2011 @ 16:02:52
Super! can you send me more information? Or, have them get in touch with me directly.
Jun 21, 2011 @ 21:01:49
Hi Joy – I have a question for you. I have a really nice honey locust tree in the front of my house that was budding in the spring but hasn’t produced any leaves yet. We have two other locust trees in the yard that are both doing great. The bark on the “sick” one is still green and the branches don’t appear to be dead. Have you seen this happening this year? I’ve thought about pulling it out but it’s about 10 years old and a great tree. I’d hate to get rid of it and find out it was just sick and has the possibility of coming back next year. Is that even possible? Any suggestions?
Jun 28, 2011 @ 21:27:40
We lost many, many trees and shrubs this past year – if the tree has yet to leaf out, I think it is a lost cause. Should it begin to show growth, I suspect most of the branches are going to only have leaves near the trunk with the outer part of the branches dead. You can give it another week or so, and remember that it needs less water when it has very few leaves. I hope it will recover but the chances are slim. Let me know how it does.
Jul 04, 2011 @ 21:20:17
Hi Joy, My vegetable plants leaves have just recently…in the last 3 days…been eaten away. So far it looks like it’s just been my squash and cabbage plants. Any suggestions on what could be doing it and what to do to take care of it? I’ve already put stuff down for the snails, so it’s not them. Thanks!
Jul 11, 2011 @ 10:43:19
You put stuff down but have you seen any empty shells? Did you go out at night with a flashlight to be sure it was the snail problem? Grasshoppers are now making an appearance – you can usually spot those critters on the leaves in the cool of the morning. They move quite slowly until the sun warms them up. Are the entire leaves missing or just most of the leaf?
Jul 14, 2011 @ 11:11:42
Before we can go after the culprit, we need to identify the chewer….night time with a flashlight will be your best bet for catch the pest in action. It also helps to water the garden that afternoon or early evening, brings out more critters that way. I like the product Sluggo-Plus for around my veggie garden.
Jul 07, 2011 @ 12:43:26
I have a plumeria plant that I have been growing for the last six years. My daughter brought it back from Hawaii. Yesterday, I noticed that there are yellow/green mushrooms growing at the base of it. My plant is very healthy to look at. I have NO idea on how the mushrooms began growing there. do you know what kind they are, and if they are bad for my plant or family? I would send you a picture, but there is no way to do this. Thank you, Jeannie
Jul 11, 2011 @ 10:40:45
Mushrooms usually indicate the presence of decaying organic material. It is a rare mushroom that causes and damage to plants. I admire your ability to keep it growing this long! Not many folks can get a Plumaria any where near that old. I would gently remove the mushrooms, wash your hands after you throw them away. Check to see if the mushrooms were growing from the stem or maybe just organic matter in the soil. Then keep on doing whatever it is that you are obviously doing right!
Jul 09, 2011 @ 09:51:38
Hi Joy, I have fairly low growing evergreen bushes that will grow to provide a hedge. They have been in for 3 years and were growing fairly well. This year they have started to brown in the middle (dead) while the outside ring is still green. I know it is not underwatered because we’re in Park City and we had so much moisture and we have a drip system. Perhaps too much water or a disease. Any ideas on how to care for these?
Jul 11, 2011 @ 10:37:25
I suspect the damage may be from the sudden drop to winter last fall. At least that is what has done so much damage to shrubs and trees down at lower elevations. It could also be a problem of overwatering. Be sure to check the soil both before and after you run the system. Don’t water if you find moisture down an inch or so.
Are these needled evergreens or broadleaf evergreens?
Jul 18, 2011 @ 07:37:20
The prime suspect in the problem is our wild temperature fluctuation last fall. I’ve seen many shrubs and even trees with similar problems this year. Right now the only thing to do is cut out the obviously dead branches – don’t leave stubs or stumps, cut back to the next live stem. i wouldn’t do or change anything else unless there is an increase in the number of dead branches.
Jul 09, 2011 @ 16:31:37
Hello Joy,
My wife and I recently built a home next to the Provo River in Midway. With the high water this year, an area where we planted maples and flowering plums is now a bog. Can those trees survive this type of environment for long or should I move them now?
Thank you
Jul 11, 2011 @ 10:34:58
It takes time to know for sure – are their leaves still green or healthy looking? After the water recedes, check the roots and crown (where the trunk meets the roots) and see if they are firm and a light color. This isn’t a good time to move them because we will be shooting back to the upper 90′s very soon.
Jul 18, 2011 @ 07:40:01
It depends on how long the roots were deprived of oxygen in the soil – since it sounds like these are fairly new trees, they may not be able to bounce back since they have a limited root development. Moving probably wouldn’t improve their chances so I vote for waiting to see if they put out new leaves.
Jul 11, 2011 @ 07:38:18
Hi Joy, Would you remind me what I am saving these crunched-up egg shells for, to combat critters in my garden (I think) or some other enhancement? I could not find this info. in your book.
Jul 11, 2011 @ 10:32:34
Finely ground egg shells are used to deter slugs and snails. But you need to put out more if the shells get wet – the critters slide right over them
Jul 13, 2011 @ 12:52:49
Dear Joy, We are trying to have an organic garden but we have a lot of pests. Aphids, Earwigs, Black ants, and Red ants. We never had Aphids till this year but we don’t know how to get rid of any them. Do you have anyways organically to get rid of them? If you don’t then other means would be welcome too. Please answer soon they are a growing problem.
Jul 18, 2011 @ 07:53:14
Hi Michelle, for ants I recommend DE (diatomaceous earth) it is a very fine white powder made of silica. It is like tiny glass shards that poke holes in the exoskeletons of the insects. Use it along their trails and even in the house if they have invaded. Just dust lightly – it is harmless to you as long as you don’t create a dust cloud and breathe it into your lungs, you can even eat it, though I don’t know why anyone would! Ladybugs, Lacewings, etc. will eventually catch up with the aphids and keep them in control. Until then, try washing them off with just a strong spray of water, and then, if they are still in huge numbers, use insecticidal soap.
Jul 13, 2011 @ 15:30:12
I planted tomatoes and zucchini and 5 gal garden bucket where I water the plants by pouring water into PVC pipe that go to the bottom of the bucket.
I have beautiful plants however my crooked necked squash start to shrivel up
when they get about 3 inches long. The plant is continuing to bloom and produce squash but they die off after they get to be about 3 inches long. What
do you suggest that I do?
Jul 14, 2011 @ 21:42:17
I have my crooked necked squash in a garden bucket where I keep it watered by filling the bottom bucket with water through a PVC pipe. The bucket is kept
constantly filled with water. The plant is beautiful and big and I am getting a lot of squash but when they get about 3 inches long they shrivel up and die. What am I doing wrong?
Jul 18, 2011 @ 08:39:51
I’ve had others with the same problem and my own summer squash are doing the same thing. I think it is possibly a pollination problem: the flower isn’t getting completely pollinated; and, the fluctuation of temperatures is probably a factor as well. I’ve eaten two meals from my two plants, the current little squash look like they will all fall off, they are just as you described, and I have others coming on. My plants don’t get watered as consistently as yours, and that is part of my problem. So, we’ll check back in another week or so and see if our little summer squash is doing any better.
Jul 16, 2011 @ 11:08:05
Joy, I had two beautiful hanging planters with million bells and petunias. As of two days ago they started looking lifeless and I see small aphids on them. Is it too late to salvage them? What is the best treatment, I already sprayed them with Lysol. Thanks so much, PAM
Jul 25, 2011 @ 13:58:16
This time of year it is a good time to cut back planters, especially petunias, and fertilize them well. Cut the stems by half, and yes, they will be quite short. Did the color part of the flowers disappear? sometimes the tobacco budworm will totally munch the flowers but not touch the leaves. Try a spray of Insecticidal Soap for the aphids. But if the color has disappeared, try Dipel or Thuricide. Those will kill the little worms (caterpillars) but not hurt anything else.
Jul 16, 2011 @ 11:26:18
Joy,
We have a Maple tree with purple leaves that isn’t doing to well. We just moved into our home last September and the tree looked like it was doing fine except it had a white fungus on the leaves. We had a man come out to treat the tree. This year it is not doing to well. The leaves are small and curled up and feel a little dry. I don’t see any fungus. There are portions of the branches that do not have leaves. The tree has a base of 6 inches and is about 12 to 15 feet tall. At the base of the tree there is a dug out circle of about two feet. It is about two inches deep. The tree gets watered six times a week for 20 minutes each time. What can we do to save this tree. Thanks for your help.
Jul 18, 2011 @ 08:35:25
First, the tree should be watered out at the “drip line” which is where the water drips off of the outer most leaves. The basin around the trunk of the tree is a super way to be sure the line trimmer/lawnmower doesn’t hit and nick the bark but water shouldn’t be put there. Water in that basin will encourage root/crown rot and eventually kill the tree. A tree of that size will do just fine with water twice a month so cut way back on the water.
Jul 25, 2011 @ 14:02:59
Hold off on the water! once every two weeks, tops. The branches without leaves may have been damaged this past winter and/or bothered by a disease called Anthracnose, not usually fatal but it will kill one branch at a time.
Jul 19, 2011 @ 17:59:55
Joy- I have a squirrel infestation in my garden. The fun of yelling, “Squirrel!” when we spot them has long worn off. We saw a squirrel rolling a ripe tomato off into the bushes the other day, and have been finding half-eaten peas and other items in the garden. Any suggestions for repelling these pests? A fellow employee suggested a flame thrower, but I’m not fond of fried green tomatoes.
Thanks!
Jul 20, 2011 @ 14:39:02
Joy,
Help!!!! Something weird is going on with my zuchinni plants. In the morning they are purkey but then when the hot sun hits them the leafs look wilted. I keep watering them so I know there getting enough water. I cannot figure out why there fine first thing in the morning and look horrible the rest of the day.
Jul 20, 2011 @ 15:13:37
It’s the heat!! Squash and some other large-leafed plants collapse their leaves during the day to conserve moisture. The underside of the leaves is where the stomata (little openings that allow air and moisture in and out of the leaf) are concentrated and they respond to the cooler, darker more humid space under the leaf by closing a little and that slows down the loss of water. This little trick can lead to way over watering if you are not careful. The squash may need water daily if there is wind along with heat, but check the soil moisture before you water. Since they are perking up in the morning I don’t think they are suffering from drought.
Jul 25, 2011 @ 16:32:49
Large leaved squash often ‘close the umbrella’ by letting the leaves wilt down to reduce moisture loss during hot days. The little stomata on the underside of the leaves release water as well as oxygen. The wilting is a self preservation technique. Be careful that you don’t compensate for the wilting by overwatering. Check the soil moisture and as long as they perk up in the evening, they have plenty of water.
Jul 27, 2011 @ 15:26:03
Joy, I asked you about my raspberries last fall – they had been in for 8 years, with very little or no fruit. You said to leave them without trimming, which I did. I had great fruit this year.
Now I want to know what to do to trim them down. They are all over the ground, even though they are in a box 12 inches off the ground. Can I trim off the branches that bore fruit? I notice I have other shoots that had no fruit and are just growing tall. Should I leave those? I’d like to have raspberries again next year!!
Jul 28, 2011 @ 15:17:45
Cut the ones that had raspberries back by a third and leave the new ones to grow berries next year. After the first crop on the old canes next year, cut them to the ground and start the process over for the next year.
Congrats on the berries – they are the best!
Jul 31, 2011 @ 19:54:43
Joy, we have two beautiful Sycamores in front of our home. They are so big this year that the lower branches are hanging over the sidewalk. Neighbors have a difficult time getting around the lower branches without getting a leaf or two in the face. We plan to cut a few of the lower branches off but had heard that we need to wait until the fall or winter because of the sap. Can you tell me if this is true or can we remove branches at any time?
Aug 02, 2011 @ 09:34:14
Joy,
Two broccoli questions. I have broccoli plants that have not gotten heads yet. They are full grown. Will they still produce. I guess I planted them from seed to late. Second. I have everbearing broccoli. What a joke. I have not gotten enough off of all of them for one meal. If I cut them way down, will they produce larger heads? Thank you.
Oct 27, 2011 @ 09:21:08
The Tomato Hornworm!! It can nearly destroy a tomato plant but if you snip of a part of the plant plus the caterpillar and put it in a quart jar you may be treated to seeing it become a lovely butterfly.
Aug 03, 2011 @ 19:45:24
I live in Eagle Mountain, UT
I found a big fat 4″ long (caterpillar, grub, or slug)?
It’s black with thin yellow diagonal stripes on each side.
It has a black horn on it’s rear and it poops green pellets.
It’s about 1″ around and 4″ long.
I found it under a weed along the cool damp ground.
do you have any idea what this “creature” is????
Aug 04, 2011 @ 20:56:48
I wrote the other day but do not see my question now. I have some everbearing broccoli and have not gotten anything substantial from them. If I cut them short, will the broccoli buds be bigger? Also I planted some broccoli from seeds, they have not budded yet. Should I leave them or tear them out so I can plant some fall broccoli.
Aug 08, 2011 @ 18:51:38
I have a hanging basket of petunias which grew fast and was very beautiful.. I fed it Miracle Gro once a week and watered it faithfully every day. About 2 weeks ago the underneath leaves started turning brown and crisp. They have steadily progressed to 3/4 of the plant. I am wondering what went wrong and if i have time to change it back. Thank you for your consideration.
Aug 24, 2011 @ 11:19:39
What should I do about an aspen tree with dark brown spots on the leaves? The leaves have yellowed along with the brown spots and it is affecting all the leaves on the tree…It is near another aspen that appears healthy. Thank you!
Oct 27, 2011 @ 09:24:07
It might be a blight – try splitting a stem lengthwise if this happens again and see if the center portion is a nice even light color. There are other diseases and even insects that might cause this. Enough sunlight can be a factor as well. Long about the middle to end of July I recommend cutting petunias right in half, meaning half the length. They always tend to get leggy anyway and this might allow more light into the lower leaves.
Aug 24, 2011 @ 20:05:30
Joy,
My strawberries are growing in a very large clay pot on my porch in Provo. How do I best protect them in the coming winter?
Thank you very much for your help!
Gerda
Oct 27, 2011 @ 09:26:21
Usually unglazed clay pots don’t hold up well through the winter. The freeze and thaw cycles often cause them to flake. If you can insulate it in some way, actually to keep it consistently cold without thawing, it might help. You do need to water the plants during the winter. Only water when the air temperature is well above 32 degrees.
Aug 24, 2011 @ 20:13:09
Joy,
My strawberries are growing in a very large clay pot on my porch in Provo. How can I pretect them from freezing in the coming winter?
Thank you for your help!
Gerda
Sep 02, 2011 @ 10:12:18
We planted our garden in July( quite late this year) but we wanted some veggies. My husband has fertilized every other week and now we have these monster tomato plants, green peepers and 4 different kind of squash. Everything is delicious, except the tomoto’s are very large and green. They have been this way for 10 days or so and still have not turned red. We have cut back on the water –our plants are 4 feet tall and about 50 tomatos on the 2 plants. We are hoping they are going to turn red soon. Help!!
Sep 03, 2011 @ 11:37:21
Hi Joy
My little pine shrubs and trees are not doing well. I have had Tru Green treat for insects but no improvement. I am wondering what is causing sections of tree to look dead while other parts are just fine. Help! Also we have necrotic ring…making yard look terrible. What is best solution…it is speading and my yard is getting worse!
Sep 03, 2011 @ 21:19:08
Hi Joy-
We really enjoy listening to your radio program. My husband and I were wanting to know your thoughts on how close to the wall on a north-facing home you can plant a garden. We are moving and the current homeowners have a garden that is directly against the north-facing wall of their home. Do we need to move it away from the wall and if so, how far?
Thank you!
Sep 03, 2011 @ 21:21:11
Hi Joy-
My husband and I enjoy listening to your radio program. We are purchasing a new home and the current homeowners have their garden right up against the north-facing wall of the home. Is it okay to leave the garden this close to the north wall of the home or do we need to move it away from the wall? If so, how far away from the wall do you recommend moving it?
Thank you!
Sep 05, 2011 @ 18:00:40
We had a peach branch that broke and the peaches that are on it are not ripe yet. I’ve looked on the Internet to see if it’s possible to ripen them off the branch and I’ve gotten, “Yes you can,” and, “No, you can’t.” What is your opinion? If it’s a “yes” is it by putting them in a paper bag? Thanks so much Joy!!!
Sep 14, 2011 @ 10:54:52
I have little “sucker” trees coming up all around the base of my trees. I have clipped them back at ground level and the darn things just keep growing back. What can I do to get rid of the pesky suckers without hurting the actual trees?
Sep 15, 2011 @ 17:03:19
Joy,
I saw your Good Things Utah segment today. I am a manager/buyer at Linden Nursery in UT C0unty. Our best fruit tree inventory is now. We also provide the service of bringing in Dave Wilson fruit trees on the SOFT program. We’d appreciate your help spreading the word. We have the best selection of Dave Wilson fruit trees in the state!!! Come check us out.
Sep 21, 2011 @ 10:55:35
Joy, I love your segments on Good Things Utah. I always look forward to the pearls of wisdom that you share. I watched the segment today on mulches. I enjoyed that one as well, but when you got to the cocoa mulch I so wanted you to mention that that cocoa mulch can be deadly to dogs. Not sure if you were aware of that or not, but it can kill a dog if they happen to eat it. Just as chocolate is lethal for dogs so is the cocoa mulch.
Thank you so much for your wonderful knowledge and enthusiasm. You inspire us.
Sep 21, 2011 @ 11:40:39
Hi Joy,
A couple of months ago I plant two dogwood trees. Even thought I have watered them every day and sometimes twice a day, the leave are very dry aroung the edges and I’m afraid they are not going to make it. The one planted in full sun is the worst. I’m hoping with the cooler weather I can save them. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Marjorie
Oct 27, 2011 @ 09:34:22
If you send the trees to Virginia or Pennsylvania or maybe Washington or Georgia they would do very well. We have none of the conditions that make Dogwood trees happy. They need filtered shade, well drained soil and mulch around the dripline. Watering daily or every other day is probably making the problem worse. The brown edges indicate that the leaves are losing more water than they can take up – it doesn’t mean there is not enough water in the soil, just that the evaporation and transpiration is way, way too much water leaving the plant. Always check the soil down about 3 inches before you water – moist soil means wait a day or two before watering but check again before adding the water.
Good luck, I’ve only seen two dogwood trees doing well in the valley in the last 40 years.
Sep 28, 2011 @ 11:09:57
Do you give presentations in the evening? I am looking for a “presenter” for next April 19 for a senior ladies’ club. An hour of information on “pot gardening” outside and/or ideas on indoor plants that thrive would be most helpful. Thanks
Oct 26, 2011 @ 13:45:42
I do make that kind of presentation – I don’t charge but do appreciate $20 for gasoline. Is the club in the SL valley? And I do apologize for the terrible delay, I’ve experienced a computer glitch of major proportion.
Oct 02, 2011 @ 12:20:31
Hi Joy,
About 3 years ago we planted some arborvitae bushes near our driveway that the deer come down and nibble away at during the winter and eat them down to nubs, then the grow back somewhat in the summer. What can I do to prevent the deer from eating the bushes, they killed one of them, but we still have 3 left. Help!
Oct 26, 2011 @ 13:42:56
You can try the commercial deer repellant like Liquid Fence or wrap the shrubs with burlap. Or build an eight foot fence!
Oct 07, 2011 @ 12:29:12
When is the best time to prune fruit trees? Fall or Spring?
Oct 26, 2011 @ 13:40:41
Spring, just as the buds barely begin to swell.
Oct 17, 2011 @ 08:02:32
I was wondering what you would recommend for a small greenhouse type thing. I have no room in my house to start seeds indoors. And not a lot of money to spend on a nice set up.
I have seen a shelf product with a plastic cover on Gurneys.com. What do you think of these products?
Oct 26, 2011 @ 13:39:29
I’ve seen those too – look good, but expensive. If you are handy at DIY projects, you could create a set up using a 4 foot shop light hung by small chains. The lights must be within about an inch of the tops of the plants, but as the plants grow you can raise the lamp. A friend of mine does the opposite: he has the light stay at one height and starts the plant container out on top of 2X4s and then removes one board at a time as the little plants grow. But if you’d rather get one ready made, check out Gardener’s Supply and a couple other sources before buying from Gurney.
Oct 19, 2011 @ 17:09:05
I live in Draper and was weeding the flower beds today and noticed little yellow bugs on the leaves. They are very tiny smaller than rice. What is it and how can I get rid of them. October 19, 2011
Oct 26, 2011 @ 13:35:29
Sorry this took so long! Computer change over has tied things up for a while. I do suspect the bugs might have been (or maybe still are) aphids, which come in several different colors. If the little bugs weren’t moving they may have been the eggs of some other insect. A good hard freeze will take care of the aphids. If you figure they might be eggs, the best remedy is to snip off the leaf and throw in the garbage.
Oct 21, 2011 @ 11:56:27
We have a zelkova serrata (Japanese Zelkova) tree, 23 years old. Can you tell me whether the bark splitting in the tree trunk is normal, or is this a symptom of a problem?
Oct 26, 2011 @ 13:31:48
Not normal but fairly common if it is on the west or south side of the trunk. This “south west” winter damage can be prevented by using a white tree wrap or painting the trunk with white latex paint cut 50/50 with water. The idea is to keep the bark cool so it doesn’t start the sap flowing during days that get above freezing and then drop to near zero during the winter night.
Nov 05, 2011 @ 15:51:16
Hi Joy, What do you recommend for winterizing Endless Summer Hydrangeas? The leaves have turned brown. Should I pull them off or wait for them to drop? I’ve read that you should cover the plants if temperatures are to drop below 5 or 10 degrees. Will Chicken Wire and burlap suffice? Or do I need more?
Jan 05, 2012 @ 10:16:38
I apologize for the delayed response….I’d like to blame it on a new computer, which I will, but also my trip to Pittsburgh put me “out of the loop” for several weeks. Right now the danger is the mild temperatures – the poor little things may break dormancy. If you didn’t get a chance for the burlap, now is the time. An additional cage of chicken wire filled with leaves might help also. Do the cover up while the temperatures are below freezing – the idea is to keep them evenly cool, not keep them warm.
Nov 07, 2011 @ 14:01:49
Dear Joy,
I am desperate. I was given a Monrovia Rose Tree in August. It has done beautifully. I went out of town the last week of October. I was afraid of the frost so brought it house while gone. It did well. I did find new fall colored growth on the tips. They were covered with aphids. I cut them off and sprayed with detergent mix and water. That night I left it by front door covered because of the cold. Now it looks sad and droopy. What do I do now? I don’t want to loose it. Do I bring in the house or leave it out to freeze till Spring.
Thank you ever so much-you are the only one I trust to help. KK
Nov 08, 2011 @ 09:48:37
Hi Joy, Does English Walnut tree leaves make a good mulch for the garden? I know that some trees put out something that kills anything that grows under the tree.
Dennis Allen
Feb 07, 2012 @ 09:43:24
It is the Black Walnut that causes some growing problems. Shred the leaves from your walnut first and they should do fine as a mulch.
Dec 12, 2011 @ 02:45:32
I have been researching columnar fruit trees on the internet. I want to plant several next to my home. How far away from the foundation should I plant them? Also, I can only find columnar apple trees here in the US, but in the UK it appears that there are also plum and pear columnar trees. Is it possible to get something besides columnar apple tree here?
Jan 05, 2012 @ 10:06:45
Hi Catherine,
Try Dave Wilson Nursery. They have a remarkable selection of hard-to-find fruit and nut trees. Their online catalog is wonderful.
Jan 03, 2012 @ 14:58:13
hi joy….. my lilac bushes…. snowball bush…. crabapple tree have buds on them…. what will this mean in the spring? thanks!!
Jan 05, 2012 @ 10:09:46
I’m afraid that is the results of our nearly 60 degree days and unusually mild nights. There isn’t anything we can do about this – so, keep your arms and legs inside the car at all times until the ride has come to a complete stop. Only time will give us the answers.
Oh, I’m in the car right behind you!
Jan 05, 2012 @ 06:59:15
Hello Joy!!! The weather has been so beautiful and nice for all of us to enjoy!!! But, in the past week I have noticed a lot of my trees are enjoying it too and are starting to bud. I thought to myself, oh no! It’s only the first week in January. Do I need to be concerned?
Jan 05, 2012 @ 10:12:50
Hi Caycee,
Probably. I am, anyway. There is nothing we can do about the trees’ response to this March-like weather so we just wait and keep our fingers crossed. Many shrubs are also budding early; we can hope for good snow cover to moderate the temperature in the soil but there isn’t much else we can do.
Jan 07, 2012 @ 14:10:29
I have 6 12-year-old cottonless cottonwood trees. This year two of them had some wart-shaped clumps where a new leaf was trying to form. I was told to use Bayer systemic. It did no good. They got worse. I tried liquid tree insecticide. It did no good. Almost all of the trees had a few by the end of the summer. They are ruining my trees. Please help me. I also have three weeping willows. I’ve tried everything, including drilling holes three years in a row and putting medicine plugs in them. The leaves are yelllowing and dying. It just gets worse each spring. Thanks for having such a wonderful radio show. It is my Saturday event. You are the Glenn Beck of Green.
Jan 10, 2012 @ 09:29:28
We need help balancing our desire for beautiful flower beds, with the problem of neighborhood cats who love to dig in and displace our well placed mulch, bark and other materials. How can we have any hope of laying out these bedding areas AND keep the cats from sharing their ‘fertilizer’ with us too? Got any great cat-b-gone formula?
Jan 14, 2012 @ 09:28:13
Hi Joy!
I have a different kind of question for you. A friend of mine (not LDS) took a trip up to Nauvoo and visited Carthage Jail and collected a few acorns from the Oak tree that was living at the time of Joseph Smiths killing. He sent me several hoping that I could find somewhere to plant them.
My questions are: Do you know what type of Oak tree is growing there? Do you know if that kind can grow out here somewhere in Utah? Would it need irrigation? Any other suggestions?
Thank you Joy. I’ve really enjoyed listening to your show over the past 5 years since I moved here from Michigan and I hope your respiratory illness leaves quickly!
Jan 17, 2012 @ 10:38:51
Joy. First of all, thanks for your show. I enjoy listening as often as I can. I have a question about the use of small inexpensive greenhouses. I would like to use one to begin seeds in late winter, and maybe extend some growing into winter such as some lettuce etc. My question is whether or not they are adequate to fend off the cold we can get even in early spring before planting time. I do have warming mats for under seed beds (that I suppose you can also use under plant pots), but don’t know if additional heat would be required. Is there anything else I should know about their use? Here is a link to an example of the type of greenhouse I am referring to: http://www.amazon.com/Gardman-R687-4-Tier-Mini-Greenhouse/dp/B000NCTGQE/ref=pd_sim_ol_7
Jan 18, 2012 @ 15:49:46
Hi Joy,
I love your show! I also bought your lovely book full of insight and wit. I have just a simple question.
Can I grow Italian Cypress Trees in Orem, UT? I appreciate your time in responding this question in advance.
All the best,
Lucy Monson
Feb 07, 2012 @ 09:41:44
Hi Lucy,
Sorry, but the Italian Cypress won’t winter here. But I have seen Leyland Cypress manage to make it in Utah County.
Jan 25, 2012 @ 18:55:13
Joy,
Do you still speak at Relief Society meetings? I attended one years ago where you came and everyone loved it. Our Relief Society sisters would love to have you come if you have the time. We were looking at April or May or other months if possible. Thank you Joy!
Shaunna
Feb 07, 2012 @ 09:40:27
Sure do! Just email me at askjoy@joyinthegarden.com to schedule a time.
Jan 28, 2012 @ 08:51:30
Hi, Joy: I’m in charge of a stake garden. It is approximately two and a half acres in size. We have lost control of it three years in a row. I need help! We plant 15 rows of potatoes 700 feet long. I would like to know if we could spray for weeds on these potatoes and get rid of half the weeding. We plant four types of peppers, tomatoes, zuccinis, pumpkins, cucumbers. Is there anyway that I could meet with you at this site and tell us how to organize this better. The stake garden is in Draper on 12170 South and 700 West. This garden is just to help people who are struggling and need these vegetables. This garden is a service garden. Thank you for your help. Kent Nickell (801) 301-9135
Feb 07, 2012 @ 09:39:48
Hi Kent,
The solution is mulch, mulch, mulch. Layers of wet newspaper, cardboard, grass clippings, etc. In the paths, the idea is the deeper, the better. I would love to come see the garden. Would you email me at askjoy@joyinthegarden.com so we can set a time?
Jan 30, 2012 @ 11:33:29
Hello Joy, Are you still doing consultation landscaping at an individual’s home? If so I would like schedule you.
Thanks,
Leon
Feb 07, 2012 @ 09:37:45
Yep, I am. Contact me at askjoy@joyinthegarden.com for details and scheduling.
Feb 03, 2012 @ 16:52:03
Hello Joy,
I killed 3 blueberry plants last year but I’m going to try again. I know they need acidic soil…so this time I’m going to plant them in containers with purchased soil that is made for them. My question is: should I put the pots in the ground (plastic so they don’t leach) or a ceramic pot above ground? And if they are above ground, can I leave them out during the winter? I would appreciate your advice.
Thanks you,
Joanne
Feb 07, 2012 @ 09:29:36
This year has been really hard on young plants because of the record dry December. Last year was exceptionally hard on plants because of the rapid drop to below zero in November. Sigh. Not good at all. Scratch the bark to see if there is any green showing. I suspect they haven’t made it.
Feb 07, 2012 @ 09:36:57
Hi Joanne,
If the containers are thin plastic, in ground may be best. Sunshine can heat the plastic to the point that any roots touching the sides of the pot will be killed. Heavy, preferably light colored, ceramic would be fine above ground. Remember to give the little bushes acidifying fertilizer every 7-10 days during the growing season. When the shrubs go dormant in the fall, put the containers in an outside, protected area like the north side of your home. The idea is to keep them cool. If we have another dry, dry winter you will need to check every few weeks (when temperatures are above freezing) to see if they need water.
Feb 04, 2012 @ 15:07:40
Hi Joy, We live in Marmalade and have 2 dwarf evergreen shrubs, about 4 feet tall we transplanted several years ago from a neighbor’s yard. After a rough patch for a year getting over the transplant shock, they were doing well. This fall/winter they both turned almost entirely brown. Any suggestions? Are they dying? Both side by side, on the east side of the house, adjactent to a cement patio w/roof. Thank you, Chrystal
Feb 13, 2012 @ 17:06:15
Hey Joy,
My friend roasts and grinds his own coffee beans. Would these beans make a good compost item?
Feb 14, 2012 @ 10:16:30
Coffee grounds make good soil amendments by themselves or added to compost. The only problem I’ve seen is when they are used as a mulch that is more than an inch or so deep. Then they tend to mold.
Feb 17, 2012 @ 17:20:51
When is it safe to plant lettuces, radishes, and other cold veggies?
I want to plant some pots of herbs. no garden planting. Will that work?
Where can I find good info on planting herbs?
Feb 20, 2012 @ 09:16:36
If your garden area was prepared last fall, you can plant those cold hardy veggies as soon as the snow melts and the ground isn’t frozen. Herbs work very well in containers. Is it just container herb planting you are interested in?
Feb 19, 2012 @ 13:53:13
I am planting Irish moss in a section of my yard. Will bulbs (dafodills, tulips, etc.) grow through Irish moss?
Feb 20, 2012 @ 09:18:05
Bulbs grow up through Irish (and Scottish) moss very well. These ‘mosses’ aren’t actually moss – they a very low growing little flowering groundcovers.